After a break for “real life” (Hockey, helping at the Firemans’ run, a night of couch-potato), it’s time to get back on the RetroChallenge horse.
Actually, due to a mix-up, I now have two such crimp tools. Oh well, I’ll donate one to work, I’m sure they will need one for something, someday.
I also decided to obtain some LEDs for electronic experimentation, and found something interesting: Avago HLMP-1600-D00A2 LEDs – that have a built-in current-limiting resistor. Handy!Unfortunately, these come with even-length leads (unlike the traditional long-cathode/short-anode leads), and no markings to indicate which lead is the cathode; so which way should these be wired-up?
As it happens, one quick and low-tech way to find out involves the use of a pair of crimp-tools, three AAA batteries and some black sticky tape:It turns out that when viewed from the back (pin-exit-side with the leads facing down), the right-hand pin is the cathode. Thank goodness we got *that* sorted out…
Actually, there is another irritant with these LEDs – the datasheet quotes a reverse-bias breakdown voltage of 5V, but doesn’t make it clear whether that is after allowing for the internal resistor (I presume so) or not. Oh well.
Because the new NV1 power-supply is a “naked” unit – bare PCB with no outer case/enclosure – some way of boxing it up for mounting in a drive-bay is needed for this project. Which is why I obtained a couple of 3.5″ disk-mounting side-brackets for a no-name storage-array:Of course, I don’t need the brackets – rather it’s the temporary plastic shipping-filler I’m after! The filler is a little shorter than a regular 3.5″ disk-drive, which gives me room to add the necessary external PSU fan at one end. Two of those fillers, one upwards and one downwards, makes the enclosure.
“Now put that goddamn keyboard down and get back to some crimping!”