Before proceeding to todays topic, there is one more operational oddity of the original APS-39 PSU that may be interesting, even though it is of no use and makes no difference to the project.
When removing mains power from soft-off state, the PON/standby line remains rock-solid at 5.6V for 8 seconds, no drooping or anything; then quickly glides down to 0V:
Disassembly – A Retrospective
I am going to need the (integrated) AC inlet socket and power-switch from the old PSU, so I can;t just chuck the unit in the bin. Instead I need to keep the old PSU chassis, but without the guts.
A couple of years ago, my other SS10s PSU failed completely (*not its fault, was blown by a faulty disk-drive that decided it would be fun to directly short +12V to ground, sheesh), and it seemed like a good idea to take the PSU to bits – maybe there was a burned-out cap that could be replaced…?
Unfortunately, the APS-39 is one of those industrial designs that is very easy to assemble, but impossible to disassemble (internal interlocks are glued together) – you need a pair of heavy-duty snips, a chisel and hammer to separate the “plug-together” components. Bastards! Still, at least I was able to not damage the case when doing it, in spite of making rather a mess of the environment:
So, as warned before, *don’t* buy “refurbished” or “reconditioned” APS-39s – there is no way to access the variable-resistors and caps and jumpers without destroying the circuit-boards. In the ads, “reconditioned” must mean simply “we waved a vacuum cleaner in its general direction”.
Sun+Sony – enough to make you spit.